There are so many types of kitchen knives, which one to buy? Material logic for tool selection
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There are so many types of kitchen knives, which one to buy? Material logic for tool selection
Chinese families are confused when buying knives: they buy a "complete set" of knives, but only one or two are commonly used, and the rest are gathering dust; or they have used a kitchen knife for three years and are reluctant to replace it after it has become so easy to cut bones... There are actually clear parameters for reference on what a good knife is.
Steel: determines hardness and maintenance frequency
The core parameter of knife steel is hardness (HRC), which determines how long the blade edge remains sharp.
| HRC Hardness | Characteristics | Typical Applications |
|---|---|---|
| 52–56 HRC | Soft, easy to sharpen, but not durable, easy to curl | Cheap knives, some Chinese kitchen knives |
| 56–60 HRC | Medium, commonly used household knife range | Mainstream German knives |
| 60–64 HRC | Hard, maintains sharpness well, but brittle, cannot be sharpened | Mainstream Japanese kitchen knives |
| 64+ HRC | Extremely hard, sharp, but easy to chip | High-end Japanese knife, powder steel |
The relationship between hardness and brittleness: The higher the HRC, the sharper and more durable it is, but it is also brittle (it cannot be used to chop bones, and the blade may break when it hits hard ingredients).
Common tool steel types
Stainless Steel
Chromium content ≥ 10.5%, good anti-rust performance, simple daily maintenance, it is the choice of most household knives.
- 1Cr13, 3Cr13 (common in China): soft, HRC 52–56, average sharpness and retention
- 5Cr15MoV (German style): HRC 56–58, mainstream household knives, balanced performance
- 8Cr13MoV, VG-10 (Japanese): HRC 60–62, better sharpness retention
Carbon Steel
It does not contain chromium (or contains very little) and is not rust-proof, but it can achieve extremely high hardness, which is preferred by professional chefs.
- Advantages: Easy to sharpen to a very sharp point, and the sharpness remains good after sharpening.
- Disadvantages: Easy to rust, must be dried immediately after use, needs to be washed after cutting acidic food, not recommended for long-term use in home kitchens
Powder Steel
The metal powder is sintered under high pressure to uniformly distribute carbides, which can maintain toughness at high hardness (62–68 HRC).
- Representative models: SG2/R2, VG-MAX, etc.
- The price is relatively expensive and belongs to the field of high-end tools
Knife type: The purpose determines which knife to choose
Chinese kitchen knife (civilian knife)
- The wide blade can be used for chopping vegetables and the back of the knife can be used for chopping garlic.
- Segmented by use: thin-edged sword (for chopping vegetables and meat), thick-edged sword (for chopping bones)
- Note: Using a pen knife to chop bones will cause the blade to chip, and using a saber to cut thin slices is inefficient; be sure to identify which one you want when buying.
Chef's Knife / All-Purpose Knife
- The standard knife shape in Western kitchens, with an upward curved tip that can be used for "shaking" cuts
- Suitable for processing meat, vegetables and herbs, highly versatile
- Length: 17–20cm (home); 21–25cm (professional)
Santoku sword
- Japanese kitchen knife, between Chinese kitchen knife and Western chef's knife
- The tip of the knife is slightly drooping, making slicing and shredding efficient
- Suitable for those who prefer fine cuts
Bread knife (serrated knife)
- Serrated blade surface will not flatten when cutting bread, suitable for both soft and hard ingredients
- No sharpening (the serrated structure cannot be sharpened with a regular whetstone)
- Every kitchen should have one
Boning Knife
- Narrow and hard blade, used for cutting meat and removing bones
- Not necessary in the home kitchen, useful when processing whole chicken/pork knuckles
HANDLE: SAFETY AND COMFORT
All-steel one-piece handle: hygienic, no gaps, common in commercial kitchens, good weight balance
Wooden handle: It feels warm and easy to hold, but it requires regular maintenance (to prevent drying and cracking) and cannot be soaked in water for a long time.
Plastic/resin handle: Not afraid of water, easy to maintain, but the feel varies greatly depending on the material.
Three-rivet structure: The handle is fixed with rivets on both sides (traditional design), a sign of durability, but modern all-steel handles are more hygienic
Thickness and edge angle of knife
| Parameters | Impact |
|---|---|
| Spine Thickness | The thinner, the more flexible, the thicker, the stronger |
| Bevel Angle | The smaller the angle, the sharper it is (10–15°), the larger the angle, the more durable it is (20–25°) |
Japanese knife: The blade angle is usually 10–15° (single-sided or double-sided), which is sharper, but can easily chip when in contact with hard bones. German knife: The blade angle is usually 20–25°, more durable and more friendly to the home kitchen
Sharpening Tools
Only a good knife with good sharpening tools can keep it sharp:
| Tools | Suitable for steel | Instructions |
|---|---|---|
| Whetstone (400+1000+3000 mesh) | All steel materials | The most versatile, the best effect, need to learn |
| Pull-type knife sharpener | Stainless steel with HRC < 60 | Simple and fast, but with a fixed grinding angle |
| Ceramic sharpening rod | HRC < 62 | Maintenance, not shaping |
| Leather knife sharpening sticker (stropping) | High-end hard steel | The final finishing touch for high-hardness knives, extremely fine grinding |
High hardness Japanese knives (>60 HRC): Do not use traditional sharpening rods (steel rods), as the edge will chip. Use a whetstone or fine ceramic rod.
*The technical parameters in this article refer to international standards for metal materials and tool industry specifications, and are not recommended for specific brands and models. *